I am Cindy, IG cnytz51 (pronounced “snitz”). My oldest kiddo, Sarah (a.k.a. IG sariditty, will post for me on her blog as I do not have one.
I started sewing doll clothes by hand at age five, then graduated to an adorable little metal hand-crank chainstitch machine, which I wish I still had. I have had many sewing machines since then, have given a few away, and now have set up in my sewing room one straight-stitch machine, a sewing-embroidery combo, an eight-thread serger and and a longarm. (Important! Make your equipment feel as worthy as it is by naming each and every one!)
Although apparel, doll clothes, and home decor are my strong suits, I have recently entered the world of quilting, encouraged and taught by my very talented daughter.
If you are fairly new to apparel construction, and especially if sewing for yourself without a buddy who understands pattern fitting, my best advice is to use old fabric, old sheets, muslin, whatever you can scrounge up, and sew and fit, rip out, sew and fit again until you are satisfied. Don’t forget that measuring your body then comparing to the pattern pieces at the same location is extremely helpful because pattern sizing rarely has anything to do with ready-to-wear sizing.
The following are not detailed instructions for how to sew a garment in rayon but rather some additional highlights and notes. The pattern instructions must be read and understood before beginning.
Art Gallery Fabrics rayon is truly a delightful fabric! It feels like silk, drapes beautifully, and is comfortable for hot or cold weather. I chose April Rhodes’ design, “Ojos Flame,” because I now live in New Mexico and anything to do with the Southwest grabs me!
5. Consult the pattern layout and fold the fabric accordingly. If the fabric features
a repeating design, align and pin the layers together every few inches.
I always try to center a repeating pattern.
6. Use a rotary blade as much as possible to cut out the fabric for more accuracy.
Scissors may need to be used in some “tight” areas, but try to lift the fabric as
little as possible to avoid distortion.
7. Depending upon the pattern used, you may want to clean finish your seam
allowances as you go or wait until the garment is completed. Rayon ravels badly
if not finished with pinking shears, zigzag stitch, overlock stitch (serging), or
Hong Kong finish.
10. Make a test buttonhole on a scrap of fabric that has the same number of fabric
layers and the same interfacing as the garment. (If you are not familiar with
making buttonholes, it is easier to see if the stitch length, width, and tension are
correct when a contrasting color of thread of the same weight is used for the
11. Mark one end of each buttonhole with a pin on the garment. The pattern will
have them marked, but you may change the spacing according to where you
want them. (I like to have a buttonhole level with the bust points to prevent
12. Using a seam ripper, make a small slit in the center of the sewn buttonhole
taking care to not cut any stitches.
13. Using very small sharp scissors, finish the cut to each end of the buttonhole.
Never extend the scissor tips beyond the thread. A straight pin can be
placed across the bar tack at the end to protect the stitches.
14. After hemming, press the hem.
15. Wash and dry once to remove the starch.