• Art Gallery Fabrics Rayon Blog Hop by Cynthia Dittman

    Hello, fellow sewists!

    I am Cindy, IG cnytz51 (pronounced “snitz”). My oldest kiddo, Sarah (a.k.a. IG sariditty, will post for me on her blog as I do not have one.

    I started sewing doll clothes by hand at age five, then graduated to an adorable little metal hand-crank chainstitch machine, which I wish I still had. I have had many sewing machines since then, have given a few away, and now have set up in my sewing room one straight-stitch machine, a sewing-embroidery combo, an eight-thread serger and and a longarm. (Important! Make your equipment feel as worthy as it is by naming each and every one!)

    Although apparel, doll clothes, and home decor are my strong suits, I have recently entered the world of quilting, encouraged and taught by my very talented daughter.

    If you are fairly new to apparel construction, and especially if sewing for yourself without a buddy who understands pattern fitting, my best advice is to use old fabric, old sheets, muslin, whatever you can scrounge up, and sew and fit, rip out, sew and fit again until you are satisfied. Don’t forget that measuring your body then comparing to the pattern pieces at the same location is extremely helpful because pattern sizing rarely has anything to do with ready-to-wear sizing.

    The following are not detailed instructions for how to sew a garment in rayon but rather some additional highlights and notes. The pattern instructions must be read and understood before beginning.

    Art Gallery Fabrics rayon is truly a delightful fabric! It feels like silk, drapes beautifully, and is comfortable for hot or cold weather. I chose April Rhodes’ design, “Ojos Flame,” because I now live in New Mexico and anything to do with the Southwest grabs me!

    FABRIC PREPARATION

    1. Zigzag stitch or overlock the raw edges of the rayon.
    2. Wash and dry fabric TWO times in the same manner as the garment will be laundered so that when finished, it will not shrink any further. I recommend using a color catcher in the washer if the fabric is a bright or dark color. NOTE: Wet rayon is weaker than dry, so handle it carefully when wet.
    3. Mist the rayon with water, then spray generously with starch, and allow to dry.
    4. Press the fabric on rayon setting (medium/low). Test iron temperature on an edge. If too hot, the fabric will be shiny.

    PATTERN LAYOUT

    5. Consult the pattern layout and fold the fabric accordingly. If the fabric features
    a repeating design, align and pin the layers together every few inches.


    I always try to center a repeating pattern.

    6. Use a rotary blade as much as possible to cut out the fabric for more accuracy.
    Scissors may need to be used in some “tight” areas, but try to lift the fabric as
    little as possible to avoid distortion.

    SEWING

    7. Depending upon the pattern used, you may want to clean finish your seam
    allowances as you go or wait until the garment is completed. Rayon ravels badly
    if not finished with pinking shears, zigzag stitch, overlock stitch (serging), or
    Hong Kong finish.

    8. Press seams open as you go.

    9. Adding side seam pockets is very easily done by making a pattern and marking
    the level of pocket placement.

    BUTTONHOLES

    10. Make a test buttonhole on a scrap of fabric that has the same number of fabric
    layers and the same interfacing as the garment. (If you are not familiar with
    making buttonholes, it is easier to see if the stitch length, width, and tension are
    correct when a contrasting color of thread of the same weight is used for the
    test.)

    11. Mark one end of each buttonhole with a pin on the garment. The pattern will
    have them marked, but you may change the spacing according to where you
    want them. (I like to have a buttonhole level with the bust points to prevent
    gapping.)

    12. Using a seam ripper, make a small slit in the center of the sewn buttonhole
    taking care to not cut any stitches.

    13. Using very small sharp scissors, finish the cut to each end of the buttonhole.
    Never extend the scissor tips beyond the thread. A straight pin can be
    placed across the bar tack at the end to protect the stitches.

    FINISHING

    14. After hemming, press the hem.

    15. Wash and dry once to remove the starch.

    16. A touch-up pressing may be needed before wearing.


    Thanks for stopping in for Week 2 of the #ArtGalleryFabricsRayonBlogHop! Be sure to catch last week’s great designers and the rest of this week!

    MONDAY, OCTOBER 9 – CRISTY @LOVEYOUSEW_ | Blog here

    TUESDAY, OCTOBER 10– NICOLE @MODERNHANDCRAFT | Blog here

    WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 11 – SARAH @SARIDITTY | Blog here

     THURSDAY, OCTOBER 12 – JESY @NEEDLE_INK_AND_THREAD | Blog here

     FRIDAY, OCTOBER 13 – DANYELLA @MADESEWMODERN | Guest Blog here

    MONDAY, OCTOBER 16 – NICHOLE @WILDBOHO | Blog here

    TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17 – CYNTHIA @CNYTZ51 | Guest blog here

    WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 18 – VICKI @ORCHIDOWLQUILTS | Blog here

    THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19 – AMANDA @PINKMANDARIN.HANDMADE | Guest Blog here

    FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20 – JENN @JENNROSSOTTI | Blog here

     

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